Access to the the rear suspension is via the removal of the fiberglass wheel well liners. Their removal is actually essential for most of the maintenance tasks on the engine as well since, being mid-engined, access to the engine is limited from the top of the car.
The liner is held in by a handful of 10mm screws with captive washers. Once the screws are removed, the next step is counter-intuitive. The liner needs to be pushed towards the engine rather than away from the engine to free it from the wheel arch flange. Once pushed in, it’s easy to then angle the liner down and out to clear the flange and then rotate it up and towards you to clear the wheel hub and disk.
Unfortunately, a lot of people try to squeeze the liner towards its center to clear the flange at the edges . This has a tendency to crack the liner at its narrowest, weakest point where there is a cutout to clear the coilover.
Someone must have done this to mine in the past as there is a small crack radiating from the top of the cutout. There is also some damage to the lower leading edge also caused by manhandling the liner out incorrectly. I’ll address both of these when I restore the liner prior to refitting. Before that though, I need to continue disassembling the rear suspension, now that it is accessible.
Once the liner is removed, not only is the rear suspension fully visible, you can also see the air intake for the oil cooler at the top, fed by one of the trademark 308 scoops, some of the chassis frame, the cover over the three transfer gears that transmit drive from the clutch (behind the bell housing, just visible) down to the gearbox and differential which are below the engine. On the left you can see part of one of the twin fuel tanks covered in its signature textured, silver paint and next to that, at the bottom, the fuel pump.
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