Assembly of the front suspension is complete so it is the time to check the split pins are in place and all bolts are correctly oriented and torqued. First, the orientation of the bolts… this list is based on what the factory did rather than what they documented :
Upper wishbone, front: bolt head to rear
Upper wishbone, rear: bolt head to front (cannot be otherwise)
Lower wishbone, front: bolt head to front
Lower wishbone, rear: bolt head to rear
Upper ball joint, inboard: bolt head to front
Upper ball joint, outboard: bolt head to front
Lower ball joint, inboard: bolt head to front
Lower ball joint, outboard: bolt head to front
Next, the torque values. These are the values from the workshop manual for my year of 308 (they varied later on and into the 328 series) super-imposed on a page from the parts book:
Note that the anti-roll bar bolt is shown incorrectly reversed in the parts diagram.
Once I’ve torqued the nuts to the correct amount, I mark them with a dab of yellow enamel paint. I can immediately see which fasteners have been torqued correctly and which are still to be done. Suspension components are critical to the safety of the vehicle so it pays to be extra careful here.
As mentioned before, the 4 bolts through the flamblocs can only be tightened once the car is back on the ground and has settled. So for those I will check they are finger tight and leave off the yellow paint. When the rear suspension work is done, I’ll lower the car and drive it around a little to let the new suspension settle, before adjusting ride height and torquing these remaining 4 nuts.
All you could ever want to know about bolts, torque values, failure modes, preloads and more can be found here: http://www.boltscience.com/pages/info.htm
Half way through assembly of the passenger side. Both suspension wishbones have been attached to the chassis with the new shock absorber between them. The lower ball joint has been bolted on and the anti-roll bar attached. Next to be attached will be the hub carrier, brake disk and top ball joint.