Rear shock assembly

Step 1: Remove the gaudy QA1 sticker. Lacquer thinner makes quick work of removing the adhesive without affecting the aluminium shock body.

Bare QA1 rear shock

Step 2: Remove the shock eye and lock nut. The lock nut comes off with a 22mm wrench but can be difficult to loosen. Both shock’s threads were corroded out of the box which made things more difficult.

Shock eye and lock nut removed

Step 3: Fit the bump stop, discard the washer that comes with it since we don’t need it on the DS-502. As with the front shocks, the bump stop is a really tight fit. I find it easier to adjust the shock to its stiffest setting which gives more resistence to push on the bump stop.

Installing the bump stop

Step 4: Insert the shock bushings from Unobtainium Supply. These are required to fit the QA1 shock eyes to the Ferrari 308 suspension. Unobtainium supplies a number of thin and thick washers to shim and center the bush.

Installing Unobtanium shock bushing

Step 5: Use the circlips provided to lock the bush in place together with the washers.

Washers and circlips

Step 6: Screw on the lower lock nut and then the lower perch to the threaded shock body, both with the shoulder upwards.

QA1 spring perch and lock nut fitted

Step 7: Apply anti-seize to the threads on the shock body. This can be messy so don’t apply too much and apply it after the lower perch is screwed on all the way down. Screw the perch up and down to spread some anti-seize to the bottom of the threads. Don’t forget to drop in the roller bearing to make adjusting the shock easier later.

Anti-sieze and roller bearings

Step 9: Fit the spring. I used Eibach springs: EIB1200-250-0325 at the back and EIB1000-250-0375 at the front. The fronts are stiffer than the back even though they carry less weight because they are more steeply inclined than the front. That’s the theory anyway and the advice from QA1 given the geometry but I’m not convinced. I will wait until I drive the car before passing judgement. Springs are relatively straightforward to change out, if I need to change them.

Step 10: Fit the top cap. It does not need a spring compressor if the lock nut and shock eye are removed first and then put back afterwards.

Top cap fitted

Step 11: Apply lock-tite to the threads on the shock eye, screw it on and tighten the lock nut and you are done.

Completed shock absorber

Step 12: This is a good time to set the shock compression/rebound. Each shock has 18 settings from softest (counter clockwise) to hardest (clockwise). I have initially set mine exactly halfway. Note: the dial needs to be mounted inboard at the rear to clear the hub carrier.

Disclaimer: describes the restoration work I perform on my car and only my car. I am not a professional mechanic. The website content is presented for entertainment purposes only and should not by seen as any kind of advice, information, instruction or guidance for working on any other car. The opinions stated here are my own and no-one else’s.
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